RAJGIR GUIDE



Lying 101 km. (65 miles) south east of Patna, the hill-girt town has been associated, from time immemorial, with mighty empires, which, once, hold say over the entire length and breadth of India. It had also the privilege association with great and mighty men, who, though long dead, are even, today, influencing the mind and the spirit of a fairly large portion of humanity, spread over the entire civilized world. Amongst the great with whom Rajagriha had an intimate association, Lord Mahavira and Buddhas are the most hallowed names.

Vasumati- found in the Ramayanas, probably owes its origin to the mythical King. Vasu, the fourth son of Brahma, the creator, to whome the foundation of the city is traditionally as cribbed. Barhadrathapur found in the Mahabharta and the Puranas, is reminiscent of king Brihadratha forefather of the famous king Jarasandha and the progenitor of dynasty.

GIRIVRAJA- means the enclosure of hills was called because the area comprising the city (valley) was encircled on all sides by hills.

KUSAGRAPUR-it was called either probably because of the king Kusagra, the successor of Birhadratha, or because of the fragrant grass that grew in abundance in the valley- city.

RAJAGRIHA- The Royal palace is an appropriate designation of a place that remained the capital of Magadha Empire for centuries.

The hills that encircle Rajgir are five in number. The Mahabharata, for example, gives their names as   Vaibhara, Varaha. Vrishabha, Rishigiri and Chaityaka, at another place, however, the same specifies them as Pandara, Vipula, Varahaka, Chaityaka and Matanga. The Pali texts have another set of names: Vaibhara, Pandava, Vaipullya, Gridhrakuta and Rishgiri. The present names are Vaibhara, Vipula, Ratna, Chhatha, Saila, Udays and Sona, their origin being due to Jainas.

KING JARASANDHA
The Mahabharata which professes to give an earlier accont or Rajagriha when it was the capital of Jarasandha,who said to have gained Teputation as the most powerful king of his time. To establish a military alliance, king Jarasnd married his two daughters Asti and Prasti with Kansa, The mighty king of Mathura and the maternal uncle of Lord Krishna, When Lord Krishna, killed Kansa for his misdeeds.  Jarasand marched several time on to Mathura to exterminate the tritesman time. The Mahabharata and the Brahma Purana state that during his march on Mathura, Jarasandha defeated and captured many king of north India and imprisoned them in Girivaja. It is said that the number of the imnurisoned them king becomes 99 and Jarasandha wanted to offer 100 kings in sacrifice to Siva, So powerful was Jarasandha that without defeating him Yudhishthira could not claim paramount sovereignly by performing the Rajasuya Yagya, the Mahabharata and Bhagavata Purana deacribe that accompanied by Bhima and Arjuna Krishna went to Girbraja and acting on Krishna advice Bhima killed Jarasanda in duel at RANBHUMI by the unchivalrous device of catching him by the thigh and tearing him a pert. Krishna placed sahadeva the son of Jarasand; on the throne of Magadha and set free all the king imprisoned by Jarasanda. The dynasty of Jarasanda, however continued to rule till some time later.

KING BIMBISAR
King Bimbisara with his capital at Rajagriha was ruling over Magadha when prince, Siddhartha Gautam visited the city for the first time before becoming the Enlightened one King Bimbisara was one of the four powerful kings holding sway over North India, the other three being king Prasenajit of kosala, Udayana of Vatsa and Pradyota of Avanti Bimbisara was known also by the name of SRENIKA or SRENYA.
Bimbisara committed Magadha to career of conquest and the centripetal force that began to operate under him stopped only at the time of Emperor Ashoka when Magadha became the centre of an Empire extending over India and Afghanistan.

KING AJATASATRU
King Bimbisara was a great admire of Buddha and his creed. In his old age he said to have been imprisoned and killed by his son and successor Ajathsatru (491-59 B. C.) who however, later on submitted to Buddha and became a concert to his creed Fa-Hien, the earlier Chinese pilgrim. ascribes to him the foundation of the New Capital oustside the hills and is partially supported by Hiuen Tsang .In the Pali texts he is said to have repaired  the fortification of the city in anticipation of an attack from the ferocious pradyota the king of Avanti. It is said that Ajatasatru was also tortured to death by his son.

Rajagriha, the Capital of the powerful Magadha kingdom, became famous throughout India for its wealth and magnificence. Its vastness is indicated by the boundary walls. Buddhaghosha mentions that the city had 32 main gates with 64 minor ones. The city was a large centre of trade and commerce. Many great merchants of Rajagriha went on sea voyages in connection with trade and many foreign merchants also come to Rajagriha. Rajahriha was also the chief centre in the age for the propagation of religious and shilosophical thought.

The city of Rajagriha was divided into two parts inner city” and the” outer city” It is not clear whether the entire nill-girt city or not but by the” inner city” meant the hill girt city and by  the present “New Fort” on the north-as was mentioned also by Hiuen Tsng, that the southern part of the hill-girl city contained the Royal establishments and this part was separated by a will from southern part containing the palace was called, the “inner city  and the other parts in the north-the “outer  city”  Hiuen Tsang also speaks sometimes of the  Mountain city” in connection with the old town. Dr. Magumdar has shown that by “palace city” Hiuen Tsang menat the southern part of the hill-girt ancient town and by “Mountain city” he meant the northern part of it, Hiuen Tsang heard that the hill-girt city (old Fort, as it is now called) was called Giriviraja and the town on the north of it (now called the new Fort) was called Rajagriha. Fa-Hien also speaks of the “new town was built by Ajatasatru while Hiuen Tsang heard that it was built by Bimbisara according to some and by Ajatasatru according to others.

By judging from the legends record by Hiuen Tsang, it seems probable the “New Town” was built either towards the end of Bimbisara’s reign or during the reign of Ajatasatru. If may be that the king shifted his place here when the old city was destroyed by fire or when an epidemic was reaging, or it may be that the king built a new fortress here as a protection against the attack of the Lichehhavis of Vaisalt from the north.

The prosperity of Rajagriha declined after the building of Patliputra (present Patna) by Ajatasatru of or his successor Udayin (circa 459-443 B.C.) on the river Ganges. From this time the political importance of Rajagriha Gradually decreased, though we have a passing reference in the Puranas that once more became the capital of Magadha under Sisunga (cira 411-393 B.C) the subsequent, kings, however,again reverted to Patliputra, but the fact that Ashoka erected at Rajagriha a stupa and a pillar with an elephant-capital shows that the place was not altogether insignificant in the third century B.C.

Jainism and Buddhism in Rajagriha- Rajagriha was an important centre of Buddhism and Jainism. Buddha passed many years of his imistrationsat this place. It was the secne of many sermons and important events of list life. His favourite resorts were the Gridharkuta and the Venuvana. After the death of Buddhia, Ajatastru brought his share of the corporeal relics of the Master to Rajagriha and enshrined them in a stupa. A few months later, when the leading Buddhist monks decided to hold a council to form a corpus of the teachings of Buddha, Ajatasatru accommodated them in a large hall in front of the Saptaparni vave, specially built for the purpose.

Jainism- lord Mahavira , the last of the jaina Tirthankaras, passed fourteen rainy seasons at Rajagriha and its suburb of Nalanda. He had many rich supporters at Rajagriha and it is interesting it to interesting it to note that the jainas too claim Bimbisare and Ajatasatru as votaries of their faith and in their texts they ate known as Srenika and kunika Rajagrhia was also regarded at the birth place of Muni Suvrata, the Tweneth Tirthankara of the eleven Ganadharas, the chief disciples of Lord Mahavira every one died on the top of hills of Rajagriha.

The modern religious importance of the place is largel due to the Jainas, with a characteristic fondness for heights have built temples at the top of almost all the hills.

VENUVANA
About 150 yards to the north of the modern temples near the hot springs, the visitor will find a find a large tank immediately to the right of the footpath. This has been identified with the Kasanda Tank. Proceeding a short distance from the southern bank of this tank and again to the right of the footpath is a large mound, believed to mark the site of the stupa and Vihara of Venuvana or the Bamboo Grova. On the other side of the stream are the remains of a stone wall crossing thestream possibly an ancient cause way repaired in latter times. The little garden on the other side of the stream has been identified as a part of Venuvana, The excavation brought to the light the foundation of a room and the bases of nine contain nothing but pottery vases filled with earth, on the east slope of the mould revealed no structure except some antiquities. Now the Venuban in kund Area is the best developed park.

MANIYAR MATH
The name Maniyar Math was originally applied to a small Jaina temple built on the top of a brick mound, about 20 It high. Worship of Nagas (Serpents), Yakshas (Demi Gods) and minor deities, was the primitive religion of Rajgir. The Mahabharata refers to the temples of two pannagas or Nagas, namely, Maninaga and Svasuka in Girvraja. These two serpents tormented the enemies. I his Maniyar Math is probably the temple of Maninaga.

In 1861-62 A. Cuningham sand a shaft near the Math and without destroying it at the top he went down to dept of about 21 ft in the will and recovered three small figures 19 ft below the surface One of them represented in its lower portion Maya lying on a couch. The ascetic Buddha being portrayed above; the second was a jaina sianding figure with a hood of a seven-headed serpent, Parasvnath: and the third was too crude to be identified. In 1905-6 Block fur there excavated the mound demolishing the jaina temple on the top and exposed a massive brick structure decorated with will preserved stucco figures around the base. The images were. About 2 ft. high and included (1) a linga bearing a garland of flowers; (2) crowned four-armed Vishnu with the upper hands broken (3) Nagi and five Nagas canopied by serpent hoods; (4) Ganesa seated on rocks with cobras twisted around has arrayed in a tiger skin From their style the images appear to have been erected in the Gupta period.

It is certain that the buildings on the site are the result of successive accumulations of ages, the last of them being the Jaina Temple of a late date.

On and near Maniyar Math were found scattered many pottery jars, some of them being about 4 ft. in hight. A peculiar feature of these jars were that there were spouts, of which some were curiously shaped as serpent hoods. On some there were a row of earthen lamps in addition to the spouts. Though there is no ancient paralled to these finds it is interesting to note that similar jars with spouts are still used in Bengal in the worship of serpents under the name Manasa.

SONBHANDAR CAVES
By a road running to the north west of Maniyar Math the visitor will come to a group of two caves cut in southern scarp of the Vaibhara hill. The rock in which the caves are excavated is not sufficient by suitable for the excavation of caves, so that the roof of the eastern one has entirely fallen off, while the level of both the caves differs. There was a roofed verandah in front of the caves as is indicated by beam holes on the outer wall. Inside the cave on the southern wall, are six small figures of the Jaina Tirthankaras carved in relief and representing Padmaparbhu, Parasvnatha and Mahvira. The inscription on the caves shows the they were excavated in the third or fourth century A.D. by a Jaina ascetic, and their Jaina origin is also indicated by the images of Jaina Tirthankara appearing on the southern walls.

RANA BHUMI
About 1.3 K.M. to the west of Sonbhandar and approached by a narrow footpath is situated what is locally known as the Akhara or Rana Bhumi of Jarasandha. Tradition asserts that at this particular place Bhima and king Jarasandha fought for twenty eight days before the mighty king was over powered and killed by Bhima.

BIMBISARA JAIL
Proceeding southwards along the main road and about 1 K. M from Maniyar Math the visitor will find an area, about 220 ft. square, enclosed by a stone wall. It has been identified with the prison in which Bimbisara was confined by his son Ajatasatru. It is said that from his prison Bimbisara was able to see Buddha on the Gridhrakuta. Partial clearance of the site brought to light stone cells, in one of which was found an iron ring with a loop at one extremity, which might possibly have served the purpose of manacling the prisoners.

SHELL INSCRIPTIONS
Towards the southern end of the valley, in an  enclosure there is a large number of inscriptions in shell characters and at several places ruts of ancient carts or chariot wheels which have cut deep into the rocky soil, can be seen  From their distribution and associations, it seem that they were popular in the 4th century A. D.

JIVAKA’S MANGO GARDEN
Making straight for the foot of the Chhatha giri the visitor will go east ward, past the probable site of the mango-garden of Jivaka and the Maddakuchchhi monastery Jiavka was the most famous physician of his day and was attached to the royal court of Bimbisara and Ahatasatru. He presented his extensive mango-garden to Budha and the community and made it into a monastery.

MADDAKUCH CHHI OR MARDA-KUKSHI
Once when the Budda was wounded by a splinter of the great rock hurled at him by his rival cousin Devadatta, he was first brought here before he could be removed to Jivaka’s monastery. The place contained a deer park and a monastery. The Sanskrit mane Marda-Kukhi or Rub Belly gave rises to a storey that at this particular place, one of the wives of Bimbisara, knowing that she was carrying a patricide, tied to get rid of unborn child by a forcible message.

GRIDHRAKUTA
It is one of the highest peaks surrounding the city. This was the favourite resort of Buddha and the ceene of many of his important sermons. At some distance from the summit there is a number of small caves, which were then used by the monks. The Anand (Chief disciple of Buddha) cave is just adjacent to the peak, the two other below are said to have been occupied by other important disciples. King Bimbisara had originally constructed the light of steps from the foot of the Chhata hill to the top. Emperor Ashoka got the flight of steps, repaired. Hiuen Tsang stated that there were two stupas, the first about 80 yards from the base and the second further up where the road turns to the north. He also says that the first commomorated the spot where Bimbisara got down from his chariot and the second where the king sent back the crowd that was accompanying him. During excavation a number of terracotta plaques with the seven past and. Maitreya, the Future Buddha, seated in two rows and Buddhist creed inscribed below each figure were found. In fact, the whole area is studded with Buddhist monuments, which show that the place was considered holy by the Buddhists down to later ages.

VISHWA SHANTI STUPA
Vishwa Shanti Stupa constructed at a cost of over Rupees 22 lakhs by Rev, Fiji Guruji of japan. During the second world war when the prosperous cities of Horsima and Nagasaki of japan were burnt to ashes by Atom Bomb Guruji in his anxiety to prevent a recurrence of such disaster decided to propagate the Buddhist philosophy of world peace and he started constructing Vishwa shanti stupes in different countries of the world. This Stupa at the peak of Sonagiri is 22ndsuch in the series-near the Stupa is a big park and a Monastery for the Japanese Monk, and a landing ground where helicopters can land.

AERIAL ROPEWAY
The Aerial Ropeway is now the chief attraction of modern Rajgir. In order to easy reach the Shanti Stupa from the foot of Ratnagiri Hill, an electrically operated Ropeway lift carrying about 114 chair has been constructed with the co-operation of Japan at cost of more than Six Lakhs of Rupees- the lift the lift takes about seven minutes only to carry a passenger from bottom to the top near the Stupa.

The charge is Rupee one only per adult for both up and down journey. The left remain closed on every THURS-DAY.
On the Vaibhara Hill,

PIPPLA STONE CAVE AND JARASAND-KI-BAITHAK
From the north east coner slope of the Vaibhara hill, a little above the Satdhara group of not spring is a remarkable stone structure locally known as the machan or Jarasandha Ki Baithak, which has been indentifed with residence of Pippala mentioned in the Buddhist text and the accounts of the Chinese pilgrims. The structure measuring 85 ft. by 81 ft. at the base and 811/2 ft. by 78 ft. at the top and 22 ft. to28 ft. high. It is built of large unhewn blocks of stone and contains near the base several small cells on all sides. Some pail texts describes the cave as the residence of Mahakasyapa the president of the First Buddhist Council and it is said that one occasion Buddha visited Mahakasyapa when the latter was lying in cave, suffering greatly in mind and body. According to archaeologists this site exactly corresponds to the indications given by Hiuen Tsang of the stone house where Devadatta, the cousin of Buddha, entered Samadhi.

SAPTAPARNI CAVE
Leaving the pippla cave, to the right leads a lights of steps to the Saptaparni cave, where the first Buddhist council of 500 leading disciples of Lord Buddha, was held six months after the death of Buddha Saptaparni cave, is a long artificial terrace in front of the line of six (originally the number might have been seven) caves, all contained in a semi-circular bend of the rocks part of this path is paved with stones and looks like a causeway 6ft. wide. Four of the caves are in fairly good state of preservation. The terrace in front of the caves is about 120 ft. long and 24 ft. wide at the east and 12 ft. at the western extremity. According to Jaina literature the cave is described “ROHANIYA CAVE”.

OLD JAINA TEMPLE
Returning to the flat space on which stand the modern Jaina Temple the visitor will find an ancient ruined Jaina Temple, which has been fully exposed and repaired. The temple consists of a central chamber facing east, surrounded by a court which again is fianked on all sides by rows of cells. The central chamber as well as these cells are provided with niches in the well contain images. Most of these images are now missing and those exist is also a fine figure of Mahavira with an indistinct inscription of about the fifth century A.D. on the pedestal.

The jaina establishments on the Vailbhara hill are certainly old. This is shown not only by the inscriptions but by the statement of Hiuen Tasng that in his time named (Digambar jaina) ascetics frequented the place in great numbers.

MAHADEVA TEMPLE
A few yards to the south of the jaina Temple is a ruined Siva Temple. It consists of a small sanctum about 10 ft square internally. The sanctum has a flat roof and enshrines a small linga, a headless bull and a miniature Sikhara.

BANA GANGA
Making straight for the pass between the Udaya and Sona hills, the visitor will go past till the Banganga defile is reached. Here the stone walls of the outer fortify cations, running on the top of all the hills of Rajigir attract one’s attention. The Forest Department has constructed pavilion from where can have a very beautiful view of the southern valley.

THE HOT SPRINGS
At the foot of some Rajigir hills hot springs rush out from subterranean depths. The waters of the springs have from very ancient times, been regarded as very sacred and a nature gift. The mineral water had a high curative value. Scientific tests have revealed that the water of springs is radioactive. People suffering from rheumatism and allied troubles are much benefited by in these springs.

THE CYCLOPEAN WALL
The outer walls of the ancient Rajgir ran 41 to 49 K.M. along the crest of the hills. The face of the walls was built of massive undressed stones bounded together. The core between them is composed of smaller blocks not so well cut and laid with chips or fragments of stones. The fortifications tons stood the highest on the east and west of the Banaganga pass where their elevation is still eleven to twelve feet high A noticeable feature of the fortification walls is the bastions attached to the outer fringe of the walls, where special strength was required.

Ajuastastru fort and New Rajgir
The fort lies between the bus stand and the Dak- Biaglow Area. The wall is faced with solid unhewn blocks of stones set without any mortar. Fa Hieu says that Ajatasatru built a fort outside the hill-girt. Hiuen Tsang on the other hand, ascribes the building of the New Capital to Bimbisara himself. The modern town of Rajgir is situated on a part of the site of the New city. The wall once surrounding the town has almost entirely disappeared; but the citadel-wall is still fairly well-preserved.the wall is about 15 to 18 ft. thick and stands to a height of 11feet at places.

Stupa- To the west of the new city, on the other side the stream Sarasvati, is large mound which marks the site of a stupa, that of Ajatasatru according to Fa-Hien and of Ashoka according to Hieun Tsang.

Pillar- Hieun Tsang saw near the stupa a pillar 50 ft. high surmounted by an elephant. But no traces of the pillar exist now, nor is it mentioned by Fa- Hien.

MAKHDUM KUND
Makhdum Shah Sharfuddin was born at Manershrif in the district Patna, spent about 12 years in jungles of Rajgir (13thcentury) a small cave-in upper enclosure is said to have been used by the saint for purposes of meditation. There is also a natural hot water spring which was formerly also known as Rishi Kund. The saint died in the town of Bihar Sharif,

EXCAVATIONS
The survey of the site and the trial excavations made indicate that the old city had two boundary walls, the outer having a circuit of no less than 40 to 48 kms. (25-30 miles), it is being carried over the surrounding hills. The inner wall has a circutit of abort 6 kms. (4miles) and it perhaps enclosed only the Royal palaces and the mansions of the nobility. Both these wall, are made of massive stone boulders but they are in a state of extreme decay. The thickness of the walls extant is 14 feet 4 inches while the height at palaces is 11 feet; Bastions strengthen the walls at intervals attached to the outer fringe of the walls, where special strength was required.

Of the gates in the outer City-walls traces of only one on the north are visible. In the pali texts Rajgir is said to have possessed thirty two large gates and sixty for smaller ones. ZIGZAG WALL- Beginning at the foot of the Ratangiri and going up the hill is a zigzag stone wall which might have also been erected for defensive purposes.

The foundations of the New city erected by either Bimbisara or his son Ajatasatru can be seen while going to Bus stand.

JAIN TEMPLES ON THE PEAKS
Dotted on practically each hill top at Rajgir are small temples belonging to the jainas which are of great sanctity.

Vipulachal Hill- Four Dirgamber Tempes and one Swatamber Temple.

Ratnagiri Hill- Three digamber Temples (2 old and 1 new) and one for faced  Swatamber Temple.

Udaygiri Hill- Two Digamber Temples (one old one new) and the third is a excavated old temple. the fourth is a Swatamber Temple.

Sawran giri Hill- Two Digamber Temples (one old and one new) and one Swatamber Temple.

Vaibhargiri Hill- One Digamber and four Swatamber Temples. A old Jain Temple with 24 images of Thirthankaras was also excaved during excavation.

Note:- On each peak of the five hills popularly called PANCHPAHARI stairs have been constructed by Jainas.

In the town- Two Digamber Jain and one Swatamber Jain Temple known as NAULAKHA are worth seeing.

Japanese temple and rest hose- Situated to the east Ajatasatru Stupa, where Japanese priest can be seen worshipping in Japanese style.

Burmese temple and rest house- In the north ward of the Japanese temple and after Dormitory is the Burmese Temple.
Magnificent Bihar - Tourism